Puebla y Veracruz

 

  Puebla

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El año pasado en una plática con mi Madre, me comprometí con ella, a viajar juntos, por espacio de un mes en Europa: festejaríamos su nonagésimo cumpleaños. Haríamos un viaje similar al que hicimos hace cinco años con mi hermano: por automóvil, sin itinerario, sin prisa, enfocados a las bellezas naturales, lugares nuevos, poblaciones pequeñas y evitando las grandes ciudades.

A principios del año, convenimos viajar en el mes de abril. En febrero, la llame para proponerle que hiciéramos el viaje en México y nos olvidáramos de Europa.

Lo acepto de inmediato, estaba sufriendo ciertos achaques menores, se sentía más segura y confiada en realizar el viaje más cerca de casa. A principios del mes de abril, un jueves temprano por la mañana iniciamos el viaje, nos dirigimos hacia el Puerto de Veracruz. 

No quise salir por la carretera de Puebla y elegí la carretera de cuota México-Acapulco cruzando Morelos: admiramos la cadena de montañas de la meseta central, la salida del sol, la silueta del Volcán Popocatepetl dibujaba a la distancia, El Cerro del Tepozteco, Tepoztlan y sus cerros con figuras lúgubres. 

Las montañas que circundan al pueblo de Tepoztlan como siempre, ejercían su magia, rodeadas de nubes bajas que las envolvían como si fuera un manto ligero y frágil. Llegamos a la desviación de la carretera México-Cuernavaca, seguimos con dirección al este cruzando Tepoztlan, Cocoyoc y Cuautla.  

Aproximadamente una media hora después de pasar por Cuautla, circulábamos por la carretera de cuota 438, estábamos dándole la vuelta al Popocatepetl. Al poco tiempo interceptamos la carretera 190, delante de la Ciudad de Atlixco en el Estado de Puebla, a las dos horas de haber salido llegábamos a la entrada de La Ciudad de Puebla, Capital del Estado del mismo nombre. Un acierto, encontramos poco tráfico a la salida de la Ciudad de México y en las carreteras que circulamos. 

En una calle de las afueras de la Ciudad de Puebla, en un puesto callejero, desayunamos unos ricos tamales y un café del gusto de madre, afortunadamente había una tienda Oxxo enfrente del puesto de tamales: mi madre es fanática de los cafés estilo capuchino de estas tiendas. 

Estudiando el mapa, me percate, que había un periférico para rodear la ciudad y lo tome con dirección al este, hacia el Golfo de México: nos perdimos, el mapa estaba incorrecto y me tomo una hora y cuarto llegar a la carretera de cuota con dirección a La Ciudad de Orizaba. Posiblemente nos hubiera convenido salir de La Ciudad de México por la Delegación Iztapalapa.

 

 

Volcán Po 

 

pocatepetl desde la carretera 438.  

 

 

 

 

 Veracruz

 

Teníamos planeado dormir en Córdoba, (más atractiva que Orizaba), unos cuarenta y cinco minutos antes de llegar a Orizaba, pudimos admirar el Pico de Orizaba, majestuoso e imponente, se nos mostraba de diversas formas según avanzábamos en el camino, poco después al tenerlo de lado, nos dimos cuenta que había otro pico con algo en su cima, efectivamente era otro volcán, El Volcán Sierra Gorda, con un gigantesco telecopio milimétrico. 

Desgraciadamente por el pesado tráfico y lo angosto del acotamiento, no pude pararme para tomar una fotografía. 

Llegamos a buena hora al centro de la ciudad, yo llevaba un libro con los hoteles de las principales poblaciones de la República Mexicana: queríamos hospedarnos en el centro de cada población, vimos un hotel con unas hermosas terrazas, el Hotel Mansur, exactamente enfrente de La Catedral. Nos gusto, se veía confortable y decidimos hospedarnos en él. 

Inmediatamente que entramos a la habitación, mi madre se enamoro de las colchas que estaban puestas en las camas y empezó con sus indirectas y directas: quería comprar una colcha. Según ella, era la colcha que había estado soñando por mucho tiempo para su recamara. Bajo a investigar con la recepcionista, ella, muy amable, le proporciono los datos del almacén en donde el gerente del hotel las había comprado. 

Inmediatamente, establecí mi posición, no era un viaje de compras, era un viaje dedicado al turismo. Como una excepción, iríamos a buscar el comercio para que comprara la colcha.  

Caminamos unas cinco cuadras (buscaba un almacén grande), no lo encontrábamos. Después de varias vueltas, un policía nos indico en donde estaba. De todos los comercios de la calle, el único que estaba cerrado era este, más bien pequeño: lucía como una tienda. Abría hasta las cuatro la tarde.  

Bueno, mal comienzo, caminamos de regreso a la plaza principal y nos tomamos un aperitivo junto con unas tostadas de camarón. Estábamos en un sitio histórico: “El Portal de Zeballos”. Enfrente de La Plaza de Armas y a un lado de nuestro hotel. En 1829 se firmaron, en este lugar, Los Tratados de Córdoba en los que España reconoció la independencia de nuestro país. 

Eran las dos y treinta. Mi mamá decía que no le importaba si no compraba la famosa colcha, teníamos que comer, pero su cara decía que la deseaba con toda su alma. Nos dieron informes sobre los principales lugares para probar la comida típica, nos dirigimos a La Casa de La Abuela en donde comimos, no fue una buena elección, faltando veinte minutos para las cuatro, salimos hacia el comercio. 

No nos tomo mucho tiempo, es una ciudad chica, llegamos faltando cinco minutos para que abrieran, paso el tiempo y no abrían, dos de los empleados nos dijeron que el dueño abría, que era muy puntual pero no llegaba, estábamos por irnos cuando se presento, muy quitado de la pena. Entramos, era un comercio de tercera, afortunadamente si había en existencia la colcha que mi madre quería y la compro. 

Ella, estaba muy feliz, yo, no tanto, temía que me llenara la camioneta con recuerdos de los distintos lugares que visitaríamos. 

Dejamos la famosa colcha en el hotel y paseamos por la plaza, tomamos un café, era jueves, observamos que en una esquina de la plaza se reunía un grupo importante de gente, nos acercamos y tuvimos la suerte de ver bailar danzon. Todas las semanas en este día, la municipalidad organiza un encuentro de baile con música viva. Una orquesta amenizaba el convivió, realizado en la plaza principal enfrente del Palacio Municipal. 

Había muchas personas de la tercera edad pero alguno que otro joven e inclusive niños bailando. Nos sentíamos en ambiente y disfrutamos del espectáculo. Una pareja en especial nos llamó la atención: él, un señor en sus tardíos setentas, ella, una joven en sus tempranos veintes. Mostraban sus habilidades con mucha gracia, bailaban muy bien, se veían orgullosos de dominar este tradicional baile. 

Él, vestido con pantalón y zapatos blancos y una camisa oscura actuaba como John Travolta. Ella vestía con traje de cóctel con una pronunciada abertura en la pierna derecha, se veía más natural. Los dos tenían pareja pero bailaron casi todas las piezas ellos dos. Él, bailo con su esposa una pieza, ella, ninguna con su novio. 

Se nos paso la tarde, cenamos algo ligero y durante la cena, decidimos ir a Tlacotalpan al sur del Estado de Veracruz. Mi mamá había visitado esta población, sesenta años antes y tenia vagos recuerdos del lugar, yo siempre quise conocerla. Las historias que recordaba mi madre, me las iba contando en el camino, no importaba si yo, ya las había escuchado docenas de veces, las seguía contando, ni modo, yo estaba cautivo.

 

 

 

 

 

Palacio Municipal y Plaza Central de Córdoba, Veracruz.

 

 

Tome la fotografía anterior desde la terraza de nuestra habitación, una ciudad llena de vida, de día y de noche. Nosotros cansados por la jornada, nos fuimos a dormir temprano, pasamos una noche de perros, no cabe duda que los veracruzanos son fiesteros, música a todo volumen y un sin fin de automóviles pasaron toda la noche por la avenida: no nos permitieron dormir. 

Temprano en la mañana, desayunamos y partimos hacia Tlacotalpan por la autopista a Veracruz, nos desviamos en el poblado de La Tinaja y continuamos por la carretera 145 hasta Cosamaloapan en donde nos dirigimos al este por la carretera secundaria 175 que corre paralela al rió Papaloapan. 

Las vistas del rió, la vegetación tropical junto con los estanquillos a la vera del camino, en cada uno de los pueblos que íbamos cruzando, hicieron nuestra travesía placentera pese a la multitud de topes de todos tamaños que atravesamos. Cultivos de caña, naranja y piña se veían por doquier. No resistiendo la tentación, hice un alto en Amatitlan, compre un jugo de piña ¡Que delicia! De ahí en adelante nos hicimos adictos a los jugos naturales.

 

 

Plaza Principal de Tlacotalpan, Veracruz.

Llegamos a Tlacotalpan a mediodía, buscamos el centro, no nos costo mucho trabajo, es una población pequeña pero muy limpia y bonita. La plaza principal relucía de limpia y su iglesia brillaba con los rayos del sol, nos estacionamos y pedimos informes sobre los mejores hoteles del pueblo, nos recomendaron uno al lado del rió y ahí nos dirigimos. Hotel Junto al Rió: pequeño, nuevo, ocho habitaciones, bien acondicionado, limpio, muy a nuestro gusto. Sin pensarlo dos veces nos registramos. 

Nos dieron una habitación en la planta baja al lado del comedor y el bar con vista al rió, bien decorada y muy grande. Además ¡Gracias a Dios! Aislada de la calle y sin ruidos. 

Mi madre tenia muy vagos recuerdos del pueblo, decía que todo estaba cambiado inclusive, que las iglesias, tres en menos de dos cuadras, no estaban cuando ella había venido, que había una sola calle y de pasto. Bueno iniciamos una breve discusión y termine por darle el avión. 

Nos alistamos y salimos a recorrer el pueblo bajo el quemante sol, afortunadamente los ingeniosos habitantes de este lugar construyeron sus casas, escuelas y comercios con sendos portales que nos aliviaban del calor. 

Poca gente en la calle, todo era tranquilidad. Uno que otro transeúnte nos saludaba muy cortésmente. Había sencillez y calor humano, nos resultaba muy grato, considerando la frialdad de los habitantes de la Ciudad de México.

 

 

Portales de una de las calles de Tlacotalpan, Veracruz.

 

 

Pasamos por una calle con pasto y tuve que soportar una media hora de recriminaciones e historias de los años cuarenta. Llegamos a un café en la plaza principal, lo primero que hizo, fue iniciar una platica con el dueño sobre el pasado de Tlacotalpan, obviamente las iglesias existían desde antes de su primer viaje, las calles en ese tiempo si eran de pasto y aunque se atribuía el nacimiento de Agustín Lara en este lugar, había muchas discusiones al respecto. 

Declarado Sitio Hereditario del Mundo por la UNESCO sus pobladores están muy orgullosos de sus raíces españolas y caribellas aunque se quejan de la economía y la poca vida del pueblo. Era cierto, lo habíamos constatado en nuestra breve caminata. 

Fuimos a comer a un restaurante en el embarcadero, nos habían recomendado uno, pero se nos olvido el nombre, caminamos y analizamos nuestras opciones. Decidimos entrar al que tenía más parroquianos, seis personas, los demás estaban vacíos, comimos muy bien en la fonda el Mirador que finalmente fue, el que nos recomendaron.

 

 

Calles con pasto en Tlacotalpan, Veracruz.

 

De ahí podíamos observar los ríos Papaloapan y Tesechoacan (San Juan), en el pasado, la rica economía de este puerto se debía al tráfico pluvial, su declive se inicia con el ferrocarril y posteriormente le dan la puntilla: las carreteras. 

Mi madre empezó a quejarse del sol, no traía con que taparse y empezó a hacer rabietas, Satisfechos y cansados, regresamos al hotel a dormir una buena siesta, lo que no nos tomo mucho trabajo. 

Había un anuncio en el cuarto, se ofrecían distintos tipos de masajes, ni tardo ni perezoso pedí informes. Efectivamente tenían el servicio pero había que ir a la casa de la masajista. No había problema, estaba a cinco minutos del hotel, ella era de confianza, esposa de un ex presidente municipal. La gerente del hotel me llevaría en su automóvil. 

Hicimos la cita a la cinco de la tarde, me pidieron estar cinco minutos antes en la recepción, conforme a mi costumbre llegue quince minutos antes, salimos y obviamente llegamos temprano. Entre las dos damas se pusieron de acuerdo, la gerente me recogería en una hora. El masaje termino a los cincuenta minutos y la masajista me llevo en menos de dos minutos al hotel. 

Cenamos esa noche en la terraza, me permitieron utilizar la cocina para preparar un aderezo a base de crema y ajos, me lo sirvieron con mi ensalada y una buena arrachera. Al poco rato de haber terminado la cena, aunque era temprano, nos acostamos. 

Al día siguiente salimos con el sol, despertamos a las cinco o seis de la mañana, queríamos conocer y desayunar en El Puerto de Alvarado, unas malas palabras no nos caerían mal. Llegamos a las siete y treinta, todos los comercios del centro estaban cerrados y no lucían muy atractivos. 

En el camino admiramos la Laguna de Alvarado, la salida al mar y un puente enorme, todo el conjunto nos proporcionaba una vista muy bonita, también la rivera del rió lucia muy engalanada con sus farolas, bancas blancas de hierro forjado y un paseo peatonal, limpio y seguro. 

Salimos de Alvarado buscando un lugar para desayunar, al lado de la carretera había una venta de mariscos y ahí desayunamos un arroz a base de mariscos, condimentado con la plática del dueño. También se quejaba de la poca actividad económica y justificaba la apertura tardía de los comercios debido a que de todas formas: no vendían. Las nuevas carreteras y el puente los habían perjudicado. 

Proseguimos el viaje a Boca del Rió, no tardamos mucho, nos impresiono su limpieza y la cantidad de restaurantes agradables y de buen nivel que encontramos: la mayoría cerrados. En uno que estaban abriendo, pudimos tomar un café.

 

 

Boca del Rio, Veracruz.

 

 

Descansamos un rato, queríamos tomar otro café en la famosa cafetería: La Parroquia de Veracruz. Boca del Rió es ahora un suburbio del Puerto de Veracruz, tomamos la avenida Vía Muerta, íbamos viendo Playa Hermosa del lado derecho y los hoteles en el izquierdo, después seguimos por el Boulevard Manuel Ávila Camacho con la playa Villa del Mar a la derecha, nos gusto mucho por la limpieza y el orden imperante. Qué importante es poder ver sin obstáculos las bellezas naturales: el mar.  

Había muchos hoteles de todas las categorías. Estábamos impactados. No nos lo habíamos imaginado tan grande, limpio, ordenado y pujante. Acapulco lucía pequeño en comparación a este puerto. 

Llegamos al centro histórico y tardamos un poco en encontrar un estacionamiento cercano y seguro, dejamos la camioneta y caminamos una cuadra a la plaza principal ¡Oh desilusión! No nos gusto, chica, con poco esplendor en sus edificios, un poco sucia, llena de vendedores y los cafés de su alrededor con poco atractivo, el mejor era un Samborns.

Nos desilusiono mucho, especialmente después de esas bellas avenidas y la limpia entrada al puerto. La Parroquia se había mudado al muelle, ya no quisimos ir, tomamos cualquier cosa en alguno de los cafés y al poco rato nos fuimos. 

Mi sobrino Bruno, había estado en la playa de Chachalacas. Le gusto mucho, particularmente, el cielo lleno de estrellas Yo quería ver el cielo con mi telescopio y vivir nuevamente la experiencia que tuve en el sur de Chile. 

Queríamos dormir ahí, esta a solo cuarenta kilómetros de Veracruz. Llegamos en poco tiempo, en el camino el olor de los pollos cocinándose a las brasas, nos despertaron el apetito y nos detuvimos a comprar uno. 

Los servicios metereologicos habían pronosticado la entrada de un norte, el cielo se empezó a nublar y soplaba mucho aire. La Barra de Chachalacas estaba llena de enramadas y comercios con artículos para la playa. Lucia desordenada y no muy limpia. Soplaba un viento muy fuerte y frío. Dimos varias vueltas y el único hotel que vimos era uno de alrededor de tres estrellas: no nos gusto. Nos habían dicho que en la Costa Esmeralda por el poblado de Casitas, estaba muy bonito, decidimos ir hacia estas playas a pasar la noche. 

Después me percate que la playa de Chachalacas es muy larga y la parte mas bonita se encuentra al norte, rematada por unas enormes dunas. Lamento haberme perdido las noches estrelladas tan deseadas, yo había llevado mi telescopio para ese propósito. 

Teníamos que recorrer ciento veinticinco kilómetros y a los pocos minutos de iniciar el recorrido, vimos un paisaje precioso, había un mirador y nos paramos para admirarlo. A la distancia se veía un poco de gente en la playa y decidimos llegar a ella, eran unos cuantos kilómetros.

 

 

Playa de la Mancha, Veracruz.

 

Valió la pena, era una pequeña barra que daba a una preciosa y acogedora bahía de aguas limpias y arenas blancas. Nos estacionamos, desempacamos el pollo que habíamos comprado poco tiempo antes, sacamos las tortillas y las salsas que nos habían dado e iniciamos nuestro banquete. Utilizamos los asientos de la camioneta como mesas. Comimos muy bien y disfrutamos de la vista esplendida de la barra y el mar. 

Después de comer caminamos un poco por la playa (no había un lugar adecuado para dormir), no tuvimos otra opción que reanudar nuestro camino, eso si, muy satisfechos.  

Pasamos por Vega de la Torre, Nautla y llegamos a Casitas. Ahí nos detuvo un reten militar, la revisión fue muy ligera pese a las sospechas que levanto mi madre, libro en mano, busque los mejores hoteles de la zona e iniciamos el calvario.  

Los hoteles eran chicos y los mejores contaban con cuatro estrellas. El primero en que paramos estaba lleno, también el segundo y el tercero, había una boda. Situación muy inusual. Era sábado y los mejores hoteles habían sido reservados por los asistentes. 

Después de mucho buscar, llegamos al hotel Canadian Resort. Solo tenían una habitación para cuatro personas, no nos gusto mucho, era un pequeño bungalow con comedor y cocina. Ante la situación (era muy tarde) y sin más alternativas, lo tomamos. Un mar picado con intenso viento nos obligo a encerrarnos en el cuarto y descansar.  

A primera hora en la mañana salimos hacia Papantla. Circulando por la carretera tierra adentro empezamos a ver una vegetación tropical muy hermosa, la humedad se hizo presente, estaba nublado, el camino serpenteaba entre las lomas y cerros que nos rodeaban, al establecer nuestros planes para el día, habíamos decidido conocer y visitar el centro arqueológico de El Tajin. Mi madre ya lo conocía, pero no se acordaba prácticamente de nada. Yo tenía mucha ilusión de conocer Papantla y quería quedarme a dormir en este poblado. 

A los pocos kilómetros de llegar a Papantla, mi madre vio unas plantas en forma de esferas que se adherían a los árboles, no sabia que eran orquídeas, estaba repleto, muy bonito e interesante, después nos enteramos que la famosa vainilla de la región era la vaina de una orquídea. 

Papantla no nos gusto, lo encontramos poco pintoresco, sucio y desordenado, sin ningún hotel más o menos decente, lo que nos obligo a continuar nuestro viaje a Poza Rica en donde encontramos una habitación cómoda y confortable en el hotel Poza Rica Inn, en las afueras de la ciudad. 

Una vez instalados, salimos a conocer la ciudad, la actividad industrial petrolera se veía en muchas partes (adentro y en las afueras) de la población. El centro era la zona comercial, no tenían una iglesia importante ni una plaza tradicional como era de esperarse, sucia en algunas partes, definitivamente no es un lugar que uno recomendaría para visitarlo pero se localiza a solo quince minutos de El Tajin. 

Ya era hora de la comida y teníamos hambre, buscamos un lugar para comer, habíamos desayunado en el hotel seguido de un largo y necesario descanso. No se veía nada atractivo, me acorde de un lugar de mariscos en la entrada de la ciudad y fuimos ahí. Muy buena decisión, comimos muy bien, todavía recuerdo las jaibas rellenas que nos sirvieron: estaban deliciosas. 

También recuerdo las fresas con crema que me sirvieron, no las regrese por tonto: era un helado: Yo quería comer las fresas para que me hiciera una mejor digestión; los helados comerciales me dan muchas agruras. Sin embargo me lo comí por goloso, mi madre pidió otro helado igual, se le había antojado, lo disfruto mucho igual que yo.  

Sin tener nada atractivo para hacer y/o ver, nos fuimos al hotel a descansar. Al día siguiente visitaríamos la zona arqueológica y había que recuperar fuerzas. Yo pase una noche de perro por las agruras y ella…durmió como un angelito. Temprano en la mañana, llegamos a El Tajin, contaba con un bonito acceso en la carretera rematado al final por un paseo lleno de vendedores de todo tipo de artesanías, refrescos, dulces, aguas y comida. 

En la entrada se encontraba en proceso el espectáculo de los famosos Voladores de Papantla, los cuatro personajes con sus vistosos atuendos, representaban los cuatro puntos cardinales, circulaban colgados de unas sogas alrededor de un tronco enorme e imitaban el vuelo de las aves al compás de la música de la flauta y el tambor, tocado por un quinto participante que bailaba en la punta superior del tronco, asombrando con su destreza a todos los espectadores, que se encontraban acomodados en una plaza circular que servía de vestíbulo previo a la entrada. 

Pagamos el módico costo de los boletos y entramos rápidamente al museo de sitio. Vimos con detenimiento la maqueta del lugar, algunos de los objetos exhibidos y ya preparados, nos dispusimos a disfrutar del día. Lucía despejado y con mucho sol. La bella ciudad santuario nos esperaba adornada con sus bellas edificaciones y anchas avenidas.

 

 

Piramide de los Nichos

 

La zona arqueológica estaba rodeada de una vegetación tropical exuberante con diferentes tonos de verde: sus edificaciones lucían magnificas. Me imaginaba las avenidas atestadas con los antiguos pobladores vestidos con sus ricos ropajes, los sacerdotes arriba de los edificios pintados y con sus acabados intactos. Me transporte mentalmente a esa época brillante de los pueblos mesoamericanos. 

Lo primero que vimos fueron las construcciones del Grupo del Arroyo, en donde se dieron las primeras construcciones de la ciudad, la plaza era muy amplia, en la explanada se planto pasto de un color verde intenso y muy bien cuidado: nos gusto mucho. 

Nos impresiono el orden y limpieza del lugar, paramos un momento a descansar e iniciamos una breve conversación con uno de los vigilantes. Lo felicitamos por la limpieza, nos confirmo que se preocupan mucho de que no hubiera ningún tipo de basura en el suelo y en cuanto veían algo tirado, lo recogían. La gente al observar que todo estaba inmaculado se abstenía de tirar basura y utilizaba los botes especiales que abundaban por doquier. 

Era una ciudad extraordinaria con una cultura y civilización muy avanzada. Llegamos a uno de los juegos de pelota en donde se encuentran varios tableros con imágenes que muestran escenas del juego y sus rituales, entre ellos, los sacrificios humanos. 

La Pirámide de los Nichos con sus siete cuerpos escalonados, tiene trescientas sesenta y cinco grecas, lo que la relaciona con el calendario solar. Mide unos diez y ocho metros de altura, es cuadrangular con lados de treinta y seis metros. Es una edificación muy característica de El Tajin, preciosa y muy bien reconstruida. 

Hay una meseta dentro de la ciudad no muy alta. Mi madre prefirió no subir, la deje sentada a la sombra de un gran árbol, mientras yo trepaba. No tardo mucho tiempo en iniciar una conversación con una señora so pretexto de su pequeño hijo. Mientras tanto yo me deleitaba de la vista que era muy buena y tome varias fotografías. En esta zona se encontraban los palacios de los dirigentes de la ciudad y se conoce como El Tajin Chico. 

Además de observar a la ciudad en lo alto, se podia apreciar la frondosa vegetación que la circunda que aunque ya no es ni remotamente la que existía en la época de esplendor de esta cultura, sigue siendo exuberante y muy bonita.

 

 

Detalle de la Piramide de los Nichos.

 

Ciudad de origen Huasteco, delimitada por dos ríos en una zona muy estratégica del Estado de Veracruz, nos abrió las puertas de las Huastecas. Teníamos mucho interés en conocerlas, ninguno de los dos habíamos estado antes en ellas.  

Las famosas Huastecas: Veracruzana, Hidalguense, Potosina y Queretana. Una población de referencia que me habían dado era Huejutla de los Reyes en el extremo norte del estado de Hidalgo, para llegar a ella, necesitábamos ir a Tuxpan, de ahí, seguir a Tantoyuca en el occidente, después a Temporal de Sánchez, para de ahí bajar a Huejutla. 

Queríamos conocer el puerto de Tuxpan, estaba muy cerca de la ciudad de Poza Rica y se llegaba rápidamente por una carretera de cuota. Nos levantamos temprano y salimos para desayunar algo sabroso en Tuxpan.  

Cruzamos el enorme puente que cruza el rió Tuxpan y llegamos al centro de la población: pequeño por cierto. Recorrimos el Boulevard Ribereño que bordea el norte del rió, corre paralelo a su cauce, bien hecho y con bonitas vistas. Nos impresiono la gran actividad en los patios del puerto comercial, en especial la construcción y transporte de plataformas petroleras.

 

 

Astilleros del Puerto de Tuxpan.

 

Llegamos al extremo oriente a doce kilómetros del centro en donde estaba la playa. La Barra Norte estaba aun desierta y sus enramadas cerradas, de este punto a Barra Galindo hay más de cuarenta kilómetros. Regresamos al centro, en el camino encontramos un restaurante pequeño, bien puesto y limpio, decidimos desayunar ahí y aproveche para solicitar informes. 

Le pregunte al mesero sobre la carretera a Huejutla de los Reyes, me dio muy poca Información, se notaba que no sabia mucho del tema, unos minutos después me dijo que las personas que estaban en la mesa de al lado eran de Huejutla. Me les acerque y me dijeron que acababan de llegar de ahí, que la carretera estaba en buenas condiciones. El recorrido tomaba entre dos horas y media y tres horas. 

Estudie el mapa, teníamos que tomar la carretera 180 para después conectar con la 127 y bajar por la 105, sonaba un poco complicado y además, me dijeron, que no había una buena carretera a Tamazunchale en el sureste de la Huasteca Potosina por lo que tendríamos que subir nuevamente por la 105 hacia la población de Panuco, muy cerca del Puerto de Tampico. 

Preferimos no arriesgarnos y subir a Tampico para después dirigirnos a Ciudad Valles en San Luis Potosí. Yo quería visitar la Laguna de Tamiahua y deleitarme con sus famosos ostiones. Podíamos transitar por una carretera secundaria con menos kilómetros por recorrer o ir por la vía larga, la carretera federal 180 y después llegar al pueblo de Tamiahua por un tramo más corto. 

Buscamos un hotel en Tuxpan para conocerlo mejor y descansar, buscamos por espacio de veinte minutos, había poca oferta y no encontramos uno que nos gustara. Dejamos la búsqueda y partimos hacia el norte, teníamos que llegar a Naranjos y de ahí, desviarnos al oriente, para llegar al Pueblo de Tamiahua. 

Al llegar al pueblo de Naranjos, estuve preguntando sobre las condiciones del camino y el tiempo requerido igualmente solicité informes sobre la comida, un señor muy amable de una tienda, me dijo que el camino tenía muchos baches, nos tomaría una hora llegar, la comida era buena pero en virtud de que nos dirigíamos al Puerto de Tampico, nos recomendaba que comiéramos en Tampico Alto. 

Tampico Alto se localizaba en el estado de Veracruz antes de cruzar el Puente Tampico y en el extremo norte de la Laguna de Tamiahua… ¡Eureka! Llegaríamos aproximadamente a las tres de la tarde, una hora muy buena para comer mis anheladas ostras. 

Llegamos a Tampico Alto ubicado en la rivera occidental de la Laguna de Tamiahua, un lugar bonito y acogedor, encontramos varios restaurantes bien puestos entre la orilla y el camino, buscamos uno que se nos antojara y entramos.

 

 

 

Zona de restaurantes de Tampico El Alto.

 

Lo primero que pedimos fue nuestra ración de tequila del día y unas ostras, la mesera me dijo que no había ostras ¡Como! Contesto, si estoy en el lugar más famoso para este molusco. 

Me entero que desde hace tiempo tienen prohibida la venta de ostras (veda prácticamente permanente), me resigno, pedimos camarones, pescado, tortillas hechas a mano inmejorables, todo muy bueno ¡Valió la pena! Descansados, satisfechos y de buen humor proseguimos nuestro viaje. 

A los pocos minutos nos despedíamos del Estado de Veracruz y entrábamos al Estado de Tamaulipas.

 

 

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