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Sur de Chile

Posted by fernando | Filed under Crónicas de Viaje

“Mas allá de la nada”

 

Mi esposa y yo nos fuimos de viaje a Temuco ¿Donde? -”A más allá de la nada”- como dijo mi amigo chileno, a Temuco, en el Sur de Chile.

Todo empezó hace cuatro años, cuando Rody y yo, coincidimos en un evento al que aisitieron distintas personalidades, relacionadas con la protección del medio ambiente, durante el cual se limpió el  fondo del lago de Chapultepec.

Recuerdo que él traía una pequeña cámara digital y yo, una más grande y aparatosa, eso basto para que iniciáramos una conversación y una bonita amistad. Se intereso sobre las fotos que yo tenía sobre la naturaleza y yo, sobre su trabajo en el Programa de las Naciones Unidas para Protección del Medio Ambiente (PNUMA).

Rody me introdujo a los vinos chilenos, la historia de su vida como periodista en Chile, el derrocamiento del Presidente Allende, la dictadura del General Pinochet y su vida en el exilio en Canadá, así como, su entusiasmo por la naturaleza. Me invito hace dos años a su fundo.

Ansioso de conocer desde hace algún tiempo las obras de Dios y no, las de los hombres, aceptamos su reiterada invitación y partimos a Temuco. Salimos en un vuelo de la noche y por la mañana ya estábamos en Santiago. Pasaríamos ese día y la mañana del siguiente, en esta bella, limpia y ordenada ciudad, antes de partir al Sur, a Temuco, capital de la zona Araucana; a unos 700 kilómetros de distancia de Santiago. Nos tomaría una hora de vuelo llegar a nuestro destino.

En nuestro primer día de viaje, mi esposa, citadina por nacimiento y costumbre, quería conocer la Ciudad, paseamos por Santiago y almorzamos en el mercado central, muy limpio y con mesas muy bien puestas, con manteles blancos y rojos, más de un restaurante, que de un mercado.

Al día siguiente recorrimos la parte más cercana de los Andes. Subimos por la carretera de las 40 curvas a Valle Dorado y otros centros de esquí. Nunca había circulado por una carretera tan tortuosa y con curvas tan cerradas, pendientes muy imponentes y aún sin la nieve de invierno, pudimos verla en sus altas cimas, en pleno fin del verano.

Yo había volado en varias ocasiones por encima de esta majestuosa cordillera pero nunca había estado sobre ella. Quería tener un contacto personal, respirar su aire y admirar sus paisajes, aunque fuera, en sus orillas. Me impresionó la carretera, pero más, la cantidad de ciclistas de todas las edades que peleaban por subir por sus curvas y muy inclinadas pendientes ¡Por Dios! Que resistencia y coraje.

Volamos por la tarde a Temuco, llegamos a un aeropuerto muy pequeño en donde Rody y su esposa nos esperaban. Después de los obligados saludos, partimos al aparta hotel. Posteriormente fuimos a un restaurante típico en el que nos ofrecieron una cena de bienvenida, sirvieron sopaipillas (riquísimos panecillos fritos) y curanto (un cocido en los que mezclan carnes, mariscos y pescados). Durante la cena nos dieron una hoja con las actividades que tendríamos durante nuestra estancia. Misma formalidad que observe en mi primera visita a Alemania, lo cual me sorprendió.

Iniciamos al día siguiente nuestra excursión por la zona de los lagos del sur, visitamos Villarrica y Pujon, en las costas del lago Villarrica a 40 km de la frontera con Argentina. 

Toda la región esta llena de termas (pozas de aguas termales) debido a su actividad volcánica, nos tomamos un buen baño en una terma junto a un bello rió en Pujon y después nos dirigimos a Valdivia, un  pequeño puerto entre los ríos Valdivia y Calle Calle, muy próximo al Pacifico Sur. Nos encontramos una sorpresa muy agradable, gozamos de los  imponentes leones marinos retozando y asoleándose junto al mercado de la población.

Mercado pintoresco a la orilla del muelle, los comerciantes nos ofrecieron los productos del mar de la región: erizos, róbalos, corvina, merluza, congrio, choritos, algas marinas y muchos otros productos desconocidos por nosotros.

Al día siguiente continuamos el viaje, ya era la hora de tomar la autorruta 5, la carretera Panamericana, con rumbo sur, distinguimos a la distancia un volcán perfectamente cónico con su pico nevado.

El volcán Ornelas de 2652 metros de altura ofrece distintas vistas panorámicas, se puede distinguir a varios kilómetros de distancia, nos encontrábamos en una zona plana entre el mar y la cordillera de los Andes. No me cansaba de verlo, afortunadamente no estaba manejando y pude disfrutarlo a plenitud. Se encuentra al lado de los lagos Llanquihue al Poniente y Todos los Santos al Oriente. Al cabo de una hora llegamos a un pueblo en las orillas del lago Llanquihue, Frutillar. Nombre proveniente de frutilla, a las bayas los españoles les nombraron frutilla por su pequeñas dimensiones y de ahí, el nombre.  Las vistas del lago y el volcán fueron impresionantes.

Población pequeña de origen y arquitectura alemana, nos causa una grata impresión. La inmigración alemana en la Araucania data de mediados del siglo XIX y fue muy importante, de ahí la formalidad chilena. Degustamos una cerveza hecha por los descendientes de alemanes en la zona y unas excelentes papas fritas, después, partimos a Puerto Mont, queríamos almorzar en el puerto.

Llegamos a  las tres de la tarde y nos dirigimos inmediatamente a su pintoresco mercado de artesanías y comida, pequeños restaurantes en cabañas de madera, para proteger a los comensales del frió viento: nos dieron la bienvenida. Escogimos uno de ellos e iniciamos la degustación de un gratificante y caliente caldo de mariscos, posteriormente nos sirvieron locos, cholos y congrio. Todos estos mariscos y pescados reanimaron nuestro cuerpo y los paisajes nuestro espíritu.

Al terminar el almuerzo seguimos nuestro recorrido hacia la gran Isla de Chiloé, Isla formidable a la que solo podíamos acceder por un ferry que abordamos en Pargua. Cruzamos el canal de Chacao acompañados de las bellas vistas panorámicas de la costa continental, así como de la cercana Chiloé. Pese a ser finales de verano, se sentía un frió como cualquier día de invierno en México,  pasados treinta minutos de travesía, llegamos a Chacao, en donde un bello atardecer y los gansos de cuello negro, nos dieron la bienvenida.

En camino a Ancud, decidimos tomar un camino secundario de terracería que nos llevará al pueblo de pescadores de Caulin. Famoso lugar por sus ostras, no pudimos evitar la tentación. Pedimos dos órdenes de 15 ostras para saborearlas con un delicado vino blanco. De postre, el dueño del restaurante, nos explicó la leyenda del Trauco, autor de los embarazos de las mujeres solteras  y la leyenda de Tentenvilu y Caicaivilu, la lucha de estas Divinidades, Agua  y Tierra, explica la formación geológica del archipiélago.

¡Que manjar, valió la pena! No solo la comida sino además los increíbles paisajes de la pequeña bahía, encajada en el Canal de Chacao. Nos recibieron la marea baja y una multitud de aves en la playa buscando su cena, había pequeños barcos pesqueros por doquier con sus característicos colores rojos y amarillos, suavemente acomodados en la arena, como si estuvieran tomando una siesta.

Ya en Ancud, cansados pero muy contentos con nuestras experiencias del día, nos hospedamos en el Hotel Panamericana, ubicado arriba del Fuerte San Antonio, fortaleza española en este lugar estratégico. Ofrecía una gran protección a todas las embarcaciones por encontrarse en el pequeño  Golfo de Quetalmahue. Estábamos muy cerca del Pacifico Sur pero no lo habíamos visto.

Al día siguiente, decidimos dirigirnos a los islotes de Punuhuil, en la costa poniente de la isla, lugar apartado en donde los pingüinos  Magallánicos  y de Humboldt pasan el verano. Algunos emigran de Alaska ¡Sí Alaska! Otros de la Antártica. Tomamos unos caminos de terraceria y perdimos la desviación que nos llevaría a este lugar, proseguimos varios kilómetros fascinados por los paisajes hasta que llegamos a la bahía de Cocoque. ¡Ahora sí! El océano Pacifico Sur con su enorme magnificencia y furia, bordeamos la costa hasta que llegamos a un camino muy estrecho y nos encontramos a un campesino, se transportaba en su carreta jalada por dos fornidos bueyes, nos confirmo lo que ya sabíamos, nos habíamos pasado varios kilómetros y tendríamos que regresar.

Nos tomó una hora llegar a nuestro destino, nadie estaba disgustado, los caminos transitados nos habían cautivado con su belleza y llegar a la playa en donde se encuentran estos islotes fue espectacular. Después de comer unas empanadas de queso y carne, con su buena botella de vino,  nos embarcamos para visitar a estas dulces criaturas, su gracia al caminar, su pequeño tamaño, sus nidos cavados en la tierra y las muchas aves que los acompañaban, fueron un verdadero espectáculo.

De regreso nos dirigimos a Puerto Mont, ya tarde, encontramos lugar en un hotel muy tradicional, el Gran Hotel Vicente en la Costanera, con una esplendida vista de bahía. Cenamos y nos fuimos a acostar rendidos por las experiencias del día.

En el desayuno  buffet muy a la europea  ¡Como extrañaba los excelentes desayunos mexicanos¡  Deliberamos sobre nuestro siguiente destino, San Carlos de Bariloche en Argentina, teníamos que ir en autobús, con el auto que teníamos alquilado no podíamos cruzar la frontera,  o Chiloé continental,  por facilidad y ahorro de tiempo, decidimos ir a la isla y termas de Llancahue, no podíamos ir más al sur ya que los ferries de Puerto Mont a Chaiten estaban descontinuados, se habían acabado las  vacaciones de verano, y  no se podía ir por carretera: esta no ha sido terminada.

Para llegar a las termas, teníamos que tomar la carretera que circunda la bahía de Puerto Mont, seguir por un camino de terracería y llegar a La Arena, cruzar por ferrie a Puelche y de ahí continuar por unos sesenta kilómetros más en terracería a Hornopiren, pequeño poblado a las faldas del volcán que esta en el parque nacional, amboscon el mismo nombre del poblado. Cuenta con una vista extraordinaria a dos canales y a las montañas circunvecinas.

Nos embarcarnos en un pequeño bote de madera, propiedad del hotel, que nos llevaría por uno de los canales a la isla, única forma de acceso. Lo abordamos junto con otros pasajeros. Navegando en el canal pudimos apreciar mucho mejor el volcán y otros picos nevados que lo circundaban, admiramos una colonia de focas y leones marinos que perezosamente retozaban al lado izquierdo y en una hora aproximadamente, llegamos al muelle de la isla. Ocupada por doscientos habitantes, siendo su principal actividad económica el hotel y sus aguas termales, las mismas que salían directamente del mar. Pequeño hotel construido de madera, austero, habitaciones pequeñas con medio baño. Incluía las tres comidas, no había otra opción y resultó ser muy buena.

Nos instalamos e inmediatamente nos dispusimos a darnos un buen baño, en las piscinas de agua caliente (42 grados centigrados). Nos acogieron confortablemente, acompañados de la bella vista de las otras islas y al fondo, el Golfo de Ancud. Vimos un bello velero que descansaba en las tranquilas aguas, a la vista de su dueño; piloto de aeronaves, retirado, dedicado al descanso y disfrutando de sus recorridos solitarios por esta bella zona.

En el desayuno  buffet muy a la europea  ¡Como extrañaba los excelentes desayunos mexicanos¡  Deliberamos sobre nuestro siguiente destino, San Carlos de Bariloche en Argentina, teníamos que ir en autobús ya que en el auto que teníamos alquilado no podíamos cruzar la frontera,  o Chiloé continental,  por facilidad y ahorro de tiempo,  decidimos ir a la isla y  termas de Llancahue ubicadas en una isla, no podíamos  ir más al sur ya que los ferries de Puerto Mont  a Chaiten estaban descontinuados, se habían acabado las  vacaciones de verano, y  no se podía ir por carretera,  ya que esta no ha sido terminada.

Para llegar a las termas, teníamos que tomar la carretera que circunda la bahía de Puerto Mont, seguir por un camino de terracería y llegar a La Arena, cruzar por ferrie a Puelche y de ahí continuar por unos sesenta kilómetros más en terracería a Hornopiren., pequeño poblado a las faldas del volcán próximo al parque que tienen los mismos nombres que el poblado, y que cuenta con una vista extraordinaria a dos  canales y a las montañas circunvecinas.

Nos embarcarnos en un pequeño bote de madera, propiedad del hotel, que nos llevaría por uno de los canales a la isla, única forma de acceso, lo abordamos junto con otros pasajeros. Navegando en el canal pudimos apreciar mucho mejor el volcán y otros picos nevados que lo circundaban, admiramos una colonia de focas y leones marinos que perezosamente retozaban al lado izquierdo del canal y en una hora aproximadamente llegamos la muelle de la isla ocupada por doscientas habitantes siendo su principal actividad económica el hotel y sus aguas termales, las mismas que salían directamente del mar.

Pequeño hotel construido de madera, austero, habitaciones pequeñas con medio baño y con los tres alimentos incluidos, no había otra opción y resultó ser muy buena. Nos instalamos e inmediatamente nos dispusimos a darnos un buen baño en las piscinas de aguas termales (42 grados centigrados). Nos acogieron confortablemente, acompañados de la bella vista de las otras islas y al fondo el Golfo de Ancud. Un bello velero descansaba en las tranquilas aguas, a la vista de su dueño; piloto de aeronaves, retirado, dedicado al descanso y disfrutando de sus solitarios recorridos por esta bella zona.

Después de un merecido descanso, nos embarcamos nuevamente al terminar el almuerzo para proseguir nuestro viaje de regreso, nuestro destino, Puerto Varas a 17 kilómetros de Puerto Mont, población de influencia alemana ubicada en la ribera sur poniente del Lago Llanquihue.

Nos hospedamos en un hotel pequeño junto a la plaza del puerto y con una muy buena vista del lago y del volcán Osorno. Durante la cena decidimos hacer el circuito del lago y al final tomar la autorruta 5 rumbo al norte, a Temuco.

Nos levantamos temprano e iniciamos nuestro recorrido por una carretera secundaria muy bien mantenida, al fondo la permanente vista del volcán Osorno y ocasionalmente a nuestra derecha, veíamos el volcán Calbuco.

 

Llegamos al Parque Nacional Pérez Rosales y admiramos los saltos del rió Petrohue que inicia en el lago de Todos los Santos y desemboca en el Estuario de Reinconcawi que fluye al Golfo de Ancud. Tomé hermosas fotografías de los saltos de agua y estando muy cerca del volcán Osorno tuve la oportunidad de tomarlo en todo su esplendor.

 

Proseguimos hacia Puerto Octay por un camino de terraceria excelente, teniendo excelentes vistas del lago por lo elevado del terreno, 36 kilómetros estupendos junto al lago y después 37 kilómetros de carretera pavimentada secundaria entre los fundos agrícolas y ganaderos hasta tomar la carretera Panamericana.

Descansamos esa noche en Temuco, cenamos en casa de la  mamá de Rody, nos ofreció un delicioso pastel de choclo, plato típico muy bien elaborado, al día siguiente nos dirigimos al fundo de Rody a 100 kilómetros de distancia hacia el norte, muy cerca  de Curacautin y del volcán Llaima. Desgraciadamente este volcán había hecho erupción en  enero de este año y no tenia la nieve acostumbrada en su cima pero pudimos observar unos pocos glaciares que todavía permanecían en su lugar.

En el medio de varias montañas, muy cerca de un riachuelo y  un rió disfrutamos de la calma y belleza de los alrededores y sus noches. Tuvimos la oportunidad de fascinarnos con un cielo increíblemente estrellado, podíamos observar cientos de estrellas y por primera vez en mi vida varias  galaxias. Quedamos cautivados de su esplendor, pese al frió de la noche.

Hicimos vida de campo durante días y al tercero como despedida, nos fuimos a conocer la reserva Nacional Malalcahuello a 27 Kilómetros de distancia, bosques, valles y montañas sin faltar un volcán ¡Sí! El volcán Lonquimay de 2890 metros de altura.

Como en muchos otros lugares que visitamos, el lugar ofrece la oportunidad de realizar actividades de senderismo, cabalgatas, Canopi, ski y por supuesto, muchas fotografías de sus bellezas.

Rematamos la visita en las termas del mismo nombre, nos recibió una alberca de aguas termales con 37 grados, bajo un techo precioso de finas maderas, con cascadas, jacussi, y dos piscinas con aguas de 7 grados y 43 grados para los más osados. Hotel resort con excelentes habitaciones, cabañas y bungalows y un buen restaurante en donde almorzamos.

Regresamos a Temuco y nos preparamos para el regreso al día siguiente. Rody y su esposa nos ofrecieron un almuerzo de despedida en el mercado central de Temuco en donde tuvimos oportunidad de comer nuevamente unas excelentes sopaipillas, curanto y unas almejas al queso parmesano ¡Exquisitas!

En la tarde, satisfechos y tristes por la despedida pero aún recordando los bellos días que pasamos en estas tierras lejanas, tomamos nuestro vuelo de Lan Chile hacia Santiago para tomar nuestra conexión a Lima, Perú. 

Tags: Ancud, Andes, Araucana, canal de Chacao, Caulin, Chapultepec, Chile, Chiloé, Frutillar, leyenda de Tentenvilu y Caicaivilu, Llanquihue, Ornelas, osborne, Pargua, Puerto Mont, Pujon, Santiago, Temuco, Todos los Santos, Trauco, Villarrica, volcan

Permalink | Julio 12th, 2008

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