PERU

Posted by fernando | Filed under Crónicas de Viaje

Nuestro viaje a Perú

Mi esposa Raquel y yo, llegamos por primera vez al Aeropuerto de Lima, eran las 12.30 de la noche, veníamos de Temuco en Chile y estábamos bastante cansados. Para nuestra sorpresa nos encontramos con una enorme fila en inmigración, tuvimos que esperar más de una hora para pasar. Llegamos a la sala de equipaje y después de media hora de espera, no encontramos nuestras maletas, recurrí a los representes de Lan Chile y me dijeron que tenían noticias de Santiago, las maletas no habían sido embarcadas y llegarían en un vuelo del día siguiente, bonita gracia, además de la molestia, me podrían haber ahorrado la espera y angustia que  genera la incertidumbre, tan simple que es comunicar pero como les cuesta trabajo hacerlo a las líneas aéreas.

Frustrados y muy cansados nos dirigimos a la salida con nuestro equipaje de mano, afortunadamente y por la hora, yo había contratado un taxi con el hotel, que nos estaría esperando.

Tercera sorpresa, no lo encontramos, pensé que por la demora, dos horas de retraso en el vuelo mas los problemas de colas en inmigración y los equipajes, se habría ido.

Busque un taxi oficial que me diera confianza y lo abordamos. Carlos, el chofer, muy amable y educado nos llevo al hotel Crowne Plaza, en donde nos recibieron muy amablemente, se sorprendieron porque no llegamos en el transporte que ellos habían arreglado. Finalmente nos proporcionaron una muy buena habitación en el 15 piso y a dormir.

En la mañana, después del desayuno, le solicitamos Información al conserje sobre Lima y especialmente nuestro viaje a Cuzco y Machu Pichu. Nos aconsejo que tomáramos un tour de tres o cuatro días con la agencia del hotel, le pedí que hiciera los arreglos en forma tentativa ya que nuestro itinerario y viaje estaba sujeto a que recibiéramos nuestro equipaje. Salimos a realizar unas compras de emergencia y al mediodía regresamos al hotel.

Las maletas no habían llegado y hable a la aerolínea, me informaron que ya estaban en Lima y que por la tarde nos llegarían. Queríamos probar los  famosos ceviches peruanos y yo quería conocer el puerto de Callao. Me puse en contacto con los taxistas del hotel pero no llegue a ningún acuerdo por sus precios y restricciones. Le hable a Carlos y llegamos a un acuerdo para que nos paseara por Lima durante todo el día.

A la hora y media, llego por nosotros, venia del aeropuerto y nos dirigimos al puerto directamente. Nos tomo 45 minutos, tomamos el camino que bordea el mar y llegamos a la punta en donde se encuentran los restaurantes típicos.

Entramos a uno de ellos y pedimos el famoso ceviche ¡Que delicia! Muy bien marinado a base de limón pero sin exceso de acidez y con un gusto a coco, acompañado de cebolla morada, camote, granos de maíz enormes y unas algas deliciosas, presentado como en un restaurante de primera ¡Lo devoramos! Siguieron un plato de puré de maíz con camarones y para rematar otro ceviche de almejas negras. Porciones muy grandes más que suficientes para satisfacer nuestro apetito.

Regresamos al hotel y las maletas no habían llegado, llamamos y nos dijeron que ya las estaban enviando, eran las 5 de la tarde y no podíamos decidir nuestra excursión a Cuzco y Machu Pichu. Continuamos nuestra excursión por Lima, visitamos el centro Histórico, construcciones coloniales con bellos balcones de madera labrada, verdaderas obras de arte.

Pese a nuestra costumbre al estilo colonial mexicano, nos resultaron interesantes los estilos que encontramos. No había duda que el Virreinato del Perú, había sido muy rico e importante.

centro_plaza_lima

Balcones labrados en madera en la Plaza Central de Lima, Perú.

El Centro Histórico, nos gusto pero nos pareció mas chico y menos imponente que el Centro Histórico de la Ciudad de México, las influencias de la arquitectura francesa eran patentes y durante la época colonial, este hecho nos llamo la atención puesto que la influencia francesa en México se dio posteriormente a la Colonia.

Fuimos de compras, trabajos artesanales y muy finos de alpaca, llamaron nuestra atención,  definitivamente quede enamorado de la vicuña aunque no me anime a comprar un tapado, muy caro. Su presentación en un bella caja de madera trabajada era de verdad impresionante.

Regresamos al Hotel alrededor de las 8 de la noche y afortunadamente nuestro equipaje ya había llegado. Confirme nuestro acuerdo al tour y me lo confirmaron. Nos fuimos a dormir para levantarnos temprano. Teníamos que estar en el  lobby a las 6 de mañana y estábamos muy cansados por la desvelada del día anterior.

A las 11, me despierta una llamada, el vuelo se había cambiado, teníamos que estar las 4 y no a las 6, le llamo a Carlos y cambiamos la hora. Duermo muy mal, no tenia ningún documento para esta excursión, bajo a la recepción a las 3.45 y me encuentro que no había ningún papel, le digo al encargado que cancele todo, ya no tenia confianza, durante la discusión, hablan de la agencia y confirman que los documentos estaban por llagar, les doy 5 minutos y en ese momento entra un mensajero con todo lo necesario. Los examino, veo todo en orden y firmo el voucher. Raquel ya estaba conmigo y solo faltaba Carlos.

Llega puntualmente, salimos y llegamos sin problema al aeropuerto, checamos y nos dirigimos a la puerta de embarque, teníamos que pagar el impuesto de salida, nos toco una pequeña cola, pasamos y al revisarnos el equipaje, detectaron unas tijeras y pinzas en la maleta de Raquel.

Pasaron a la colección de artículos prohibidos del aeropuerto. Lo pondrían en unas grandes urnas para su exhibición y como advertencia a los pasajeros. Llegamos a la sala justo a tiempo pero se había retrasado la salida por mal tiempo en Cuzco.

Con un atraso de 45 minutos, abordamos, una hora después llegamos a nuestro destino, en donde nos esperaba un guía. Nos llevaron al hotel, nos ofrecieron te de coca y definimos las actividades de la excursión. Nos recomendaron descansar toda la mañana, yo definitivamente lo necesitaba, además la altura me estaba afectando. Comimos ligero y a las dos, iniciamos la visita guiada a la ciudad y sus alrededores.

Catedral en la Plaza Central de Cuzco, Perú.

Preciosa ciudad colonial, muy parecida a Taxco pero mucho más grande, más señorial, la plaza impactante, cantera rosa por doquier,  con su catedral y edificios rematados por portales. Todos los techos de teja roja, muy limpio y ordenado.

Museo de Koricancha, construcción española en ruinas incas, Centro de Cuzco

El primer lugar que visitamos fue Koricancha, una edificación muy interesante de arquitectura española, casa, monasterio y ahora museo que conserva estructuras de los Incas en donde por primera vez pudimos apreciar esas grandes piedras perfectamente pulidas y colocadas de tal modo que se mantuvieran en buen estado durante tanto tiempo y soportando una buena cantidad de terremotos. Los Incas tenían técnicas constructivas avanzadas que siguen admirando a los expertos. Un bello jardín al frente sirve de un magnifico marco para realzar la belleza de este lugar… Proseguimos nuestra visita en la zona arqueológica de Sacayhuaman.

Mi esposa Raquel y yo en una de las murallas de la zona arqueologica de Sacayhuaman

Al día siguiente a las seis de mañana, tomamos el tren Back Packer con un costo de $48.00 dólares por persona en viaje redondo,  me entere que había otro tren de mejor clase y con ventanas en el techo, el Vista Dome con un precio de $71..00 dólares, trate de hacer el cambio pero todo estaba ocupado, hay mucha demanda.

El trayecto duraba cuatro horas, pensé que me iba a dormir, pero no, los paisajes eran muy interesantes y pese al ronroneo del tren, me mantuve despierto todo el tiempo.

La salida de Cuzco fue muy lenta, un tren zigzagueante recorrió muy pocos kilómetros en un hora para salir de la ciudad, después pasamos por el Valle Sagrado para posteriormente entrar en un canon muy hermoso en donde nos acompañaba el rió Urubamba. La flora cambiaba a medida que íbamos bajando de los 3200 metros a los 2000 metros en donde se iniciaba la selva tropical.

Llegamos a Aguascalientes, pueblo cercano a Machu Picchu en donde afortunadamente dormiríamos. Nos reciben los empleados del hotel, nos dicen que el hotel se encuentra muy cerca de la estación, cinco minutos caminando, de hecho, esta enfrente de la estación solo hay que darle la vuelta. Nos ayudan con el equipaje y los seguimos, llegamos a unas vías y caminamos por ellas ¡Que raro! Seguimos caminando cuando nos señalan el hotel que se encuentra enfrente de las vías, estábamos por entrar cuando nos hacen senas para que dejemos las vías, viene un tren.

Mi esposa Raquel en las vías del tren, Aguascalientes, Perú.

¡Interesante sorpresa! Un hotel pequeño pero confortable, nos asignan una habitación con vista al Rió Urubamba, teníamos esta opción con un ruido ensordecedor pero constante del rió o una habitación al frente para escuchar los ocasionales ruidos del paso de los trenes, optamos por la primera. Ya instalados y después de un descanso salimos a caminar y conocer el pueblo. Población diminuta con un estilo peculiar, dedicada por completo al turismo, mucha artesanía, unos quince hoteles y varios restaurantes, fuimos a uno que nos recomendaron. Comimos ceviche y alpaca a la parrilla ¡Deliciosa y sin colesterol!  Platos adornados con tallas de verduras, verdaderas obras artesanales,

Después de pasear y tomar unas fotos del rió y de las altas montañas que rodeaban la población, fuimos a la  estación, quería ver si tenia suerte y podía cambiar mis boletos para tomar, de regreso, el tren Vista Dome. Me atendió un empleado muy amable, quien busco y encontró dos  cancelaciones  pero eran asientos en distintos vagones. Los cambie esperando que pudiéramos viajar juntos haciendo algún cambio con la ayuda de los encargados que amablemente nos asistieron. Regresamos al hotel a descansar, teníamos que estar a las 5.30 del día siguiente en la estación de autobuses para subir a Machu Picchu, lo cual nos llevaria 20 minutos.

Dormimos muy bien, arreglamos nuestro equipaje y lo dejamos en la recepción, la hora de salida en estos hoteles es a las 10 de la mañana. Partimos a la estación. Esperamos unos minutos y tomamos el segundo autobús, en medio de una bruma intensa, iniciamos nuestro ascenso de 500 metros a nuestro destino. Ahí encontraríamos a la guía. Llegamos a 5.50 horas, la cita era a las 6.20 horas, no había mas de 20 gentes esperando en la entrada, vimos a una pareja y les preguntamos si eran de nuestro grupo, nos dijeron que si y comenzamos una charla. A los cinco minutos decidimos entrar, estábamos muy ansiosos y no esperamos a la guía, no queríamos perdernos el amanecer.

Entramos muy emocionados y entre la bruma empezamos a distinguir algunas de las estructuras, tomamos un camino hacia arriba, la pareja que conocimos iba muy rápido y se nos perdieron, seguimos y llegamos a una pequeña construcción en donde pudimos apreciar a unas llamas, estábamos en la Casa de los Guardianes desde donde se debería observar la ciudad, la bruma no nos permitía ver mas que las terrazas de cultivo. El cuidador nos dijo que si seguíamos el camino por donde veníamos nos dirigíamos al Intihuana, lo cual nos llevaría dos horas y media, nos dimos cuenta de que no estábamos en el camino correcto, también nos percatamos que no llevábamos ni mapa ni el libro que había comprado sobre el lugar.

Casa del cuidador en Machu Pichu, Perú.

Decidimos regresar a la entrada y buscar a nuestro grupo, a los lejos, abajo, entre la bruma, vimos tres grupos, apresuramos el paso y los alcanzamos, ninguno era el nuestro pero en eso,  nos alcanzo la pareja que conocimos a la entrada y dijeron, que había que ir a Wayna Picchu, solo podían entrar 400 personas al día, había que apurarse y prosiguieron su acelerado paso.

Sin pensar los seguimos y entre la bruma pasamos por algunas construcciones y explanadas pero no podíamos identificarlas, nos tomo media hora llegar a la entrada de Wayna Picchu. Yo pensé que era el centro ceremonial  de Machu Pichu. Abrían a las 7.00 horas, vi. el mapa del recorrido, duraba una hora, esperamos a que abrieran junto con aproximadamente treinta personas.

Por fin entramos ¡Que afortunados! Empezamos a caminar, subimos y bajamos e iniciamos un ascenso, pasado un tiempo, por lo sinuoso del camino y la gran dificultad del ascenso me di cuenta que estábamos subiendo una montana y que nos alejábamos de las ruinas.

Panoramica desde el monte Wayna Pichu.

Estábamos cautivados con la belleza que nos rodeaba, las montanas cubiertas parcialmente por la niebla, la vegetación selvática, ascenso prácticamente vertical en un sendero muy estrecho con los desfiladeros amenazantes nos hicieron seguir. Recordé mi ascenso al cerro de Tepoztlan, sin embargo, este ascenso era mucho más difícil y demandante. Raquel estaba encantada, ella es más atlética que yo y con mucha mayor condición física. Trascurrida una hora y cuarto, de esfuerzo, miramos hacia arriba y calculamos que nos faltaba una tercera o cuarta parte para llegar pero mis piernas ya no me respondían, no me sentía bien y calculaba el tiempo que nos faltaba para llegar y luego la bajada. Opte por renunciar al ascenso pese las objeciones de Raquel, mi mala condición física la convenció que era mejor que regresáramos y así lo hicimos.

Llegamos a la salida y lo primero que hice fue  sentarme en una banca para descansar y tomar aire, firmamos el registro y notamos que habían renunciado mas de una docena de personas antes que nosotros, lo cual, me quito un poco el sentimiento de fracaso. Wayna Picchu es el pico que aparece detrás de las construcciones de Machu Picchu en muchas de las fotografías qué observamos de este lugar, tiene una altura de 2760 metros, 360 metros mas que la ciudad sagrada y se requiere de mucho esfuerzo para llegar a su cima, morada de los sacerdotes principales y las vírgenes que para celebrar el nuevo dia bajaban todos los días a la plaza principal. Estábamos en la explanada de Machu Pichu y pude ver con mi gran angular a los paseantes que habían conquistado la cima de Wayna Pichu y les tome una foto.

wayna_pichu_peru

Observatorio del monte Wayna Pichu.

Me arrepentí de no haber seguido pero fui altamente compensado con las fascinantes vistas panorámicas del lugar al disiparse la bruma y salir el sol con todo su esplendor. Tuvimos mucha suerte, normalmente en esta época hay lluvia o llovizna. Visitamos con toda calma, la plaza principal, el templo de las tres ventanas, la piedra astrológica denominada Intihuatana, el Templo del Sol, las impresionantes pendientes en donde se encuentran las terrazas de cultivos y muchos puntos más.

Casa del Vigilante vista desde la Plaza Central, Machu Pichu, Perú.
Plaza Central Machu Pichu, Perú.

Terrazas agrícolas Machu Pichu, Perú.

Piedra Intihuatana

A la una de la tarde terminamos la visita y regresamos a Aguas Calientes, almorzamos, recogimos el equipaje y con la ayuda de uno de los empleados partimos a la estación para tomar el tren Vistadome. Fuimos afortunados, los empleados del tren nos consiguieron dos asientos juntos, el cambio fue estupendo, estábamos mucho mas cómodos y las ventanas de los lados y en el techo nos permitían admirar los paisajes mucho mejor. Pedimos una botella de vino y disfrutamos del viaje. En el camino se nos ofreció un espectáculo de un personaje típico y un desfile de modas. Nos divertimos al observar a los pasajeros que habían visitado Machu Picchu  por el día, venían muertos y muchos no podían abrir los ojos.

tren_vista_dome

Espectáculo del tren Vista Dome, Machu Pichu, Perú.

Un día mágico, muy cansados, llegamos de noche a Cuzco, nos ahorramos 45 minutos de tren que ya nos tenía fastidiados, nos bajamos en una estación a la entrada de la ciudad y tomamos un taxi que nos dejo en la plaza principal en 15 minutos. Podíamos descansar sin presiones, nuestro avión salía al día siguiente a las 13.00 horas.

Despertamos tarde, hicimos el equipaje y nos fuimos a dar una última vuelta al centro y nos sentamos a desayunar en un restaurante con mesas en un pasillo con arcos de un edificio muy bonito con vista a una pequeña plaza. Se nos fue el tiempo observando a la los nativos en su diaria jornada. A las dos de la tarde tomamos el avión y en el aeropuerto, llame a mi hijo, nos saludamos y me dijo que nos esperaban en la madrugada siguiente, le dije que estaba equivocado, llegaríamos la madrugada del miércoles, ya que nuestro avión salía a las 0.30 horas del martes. Suspendimos la conversación, ya estábamos por despegar.

Durante el vuelo, saque los papeles y me di cuenta que yo estaba en un error, afortunadamente había hablado con mi hijo, de otra forma habríamos perdido el vuelo. Yo tenía reservaciones para dos noches en un hotel en lima y no íbamos a pasar ni siquiera la primera. Teníamos que estar en el aeropuerto a las 22.00 horas a mas tardar. Llegamos a Lima a las 15.30, a la salida nos recogió Carlos y decidí ir a los mostradores de Lan Perú para checarnos, lo hice y me dieron los pases de abordar, podíamos llegar con dos horas de anticipación.

Fuimos a recoger las maletas al hotel en que estuvimos tres días antes y nos dirigimos al nuevo hotel. Nos registramos, arreglamos todo nuestro equipaje y descansamos un rato. Salimos a cenar, regresamos, recogimos nuestras pertenencias y a la hora pactada, Carlos nos recogió, llegamos con más de dos horas de anticipación al mostrador y dejamos nuestras maletas.

Nos dirigimos a las salas de abordar y ¡Oh sorpresa! Teníamos que pagar el impuesto de salida, había una línea de al menos 100 personas ¡Increíble! Esperamos con paciencia, nos sobraba tiempo, a la media hora, salimos y casi me desmayo ¡Si! Había otra cola de más de doscientas personas para pasar migración ¡Increíble! Gente impactada por doquier, ansiosa y angustiada por temor a perder su vuelo. A los 45 minutos de espera y faltando 50 minutos para que saliera nuestro vuelo, me empiezo a poner nervioso. Le pregunto a una empleada y me dice, que me tranquilice que tenemos mucho tiempo.

Finalmente pasamanos migración con 15 minutos de anticipación de la salida de nuestro vuelo. Corremos en los pasillos a nuestra sala de abordar pensando que estarían en el abordaje y cuando llegamos ¡Oh sorpresa! La salida estaba demorada dos horas, no había llegado un bendito vuelo de Buenos Aires y lo estaban esperando.Raquel muy emocionada se fue a las tiendas y yo encan…tado por la desvelada y desmañada me senté a esperar con gran paciencia las dos horas y cuarto. .

Bueno, pese a los extravíos, demoras y otros problemitas, la pasamos muy bien y nos divertimos mucho, yo sigo pensando, que ciertos problemas, son los placeres adicionales de un viaje.

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Permalink | Agosto 15th, 2008

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